French Star or American Star revisited

September 2023

Covering Quilts

French Star or American Star revisited

by Sandra Starley

One of my all-time favorite antique quilt patterns is the French Star. I love sharing information about the block and hope to uncover more antique quilts featuring this design. I heartily applaud that daring early 1800s quilter who first combined two blocks named for famous Frenchmen: the eight-pointed LeMoyne star and Lafayette Orange Peel ovals to create this graphic new pattern.

In 1931, quilt designer Ruby McKim appropriately named it ‘French Star’ and noted it was a “Canadian pattern varying the eight-pointed star of diamond-shaped blocks by introducing small melon-shaped pieces (that) in turn form a wreath and may divide the star into two colors.” McKim’s pattern was followed precisely to create a French Star in my collection made in the cheery 1930s palette.

The pattern can be constructed with different methods and different pattern pieces but resulting in a similar look. The melons can be hand appliquéd over the center of each diamond piece or fussily curved pieces. Centers can be sewn in eight cone pieces, giving them the appearance of a two-color pinwheel. Or following the McKim pattern, the centers would be made of four duck foot shapes. Note: other pattern names include Winding Walk (Ladies Art Co., 1898), Gleaming Sun and Flaming Sun (Nancy Cabot, 1936), and Fox Chase and Biloxi (Hearth and Home, 1902).

The Biloxi pattern has more intricate piecing and coloring than French Star and is even rarer. I have only found two or three quilts made from the pattern. Biloxi refers to a small Native American tribe that was first encountered by Europeans near Biloxi, MS. The tribe was forced westward to Louisiana and that is where their culture was surveyed by anthropologist Owen Dorsey in 1892 and 1893. Dorsey received three quilt patterns that “were drawn for him by a Biloxi Indian from quilts pieced by his Indian wife.” Dorsey shared the patterns with Fanny Bergen, who included the pattern along with many others in her detailed quilt history article, “The Tapestry of the New World” in Scribner’s Magazine in 1894. She noted that quilting has “been taken up by some of the least nomadic of our American Indians,” referring to the Biloxi tribe. More than 130 years later, there is still an existing tribe with 951 members tallied in the 2015 census. It is unclear whether the pattern is truly a Native American-created design or copied from a French or Canadian quilt that migrated to Louisiana.

 

a rocky road quilt

A French Star

A French Star, Circa 1850, from the Starley Quilt Collection. (Image courtesy of the author)

The French (French Canadian) Star and its Biloxi variation appear to have links to France and that most French of states, Louisiana. Learning more about the development of the patterns and their true origins would be a worthy research project. Examples of French Star, Biloxi and their variations appear to be rare. I hope that more antique or vintage versions will surface and be shared and that current quilters will be inspired to create their own. French Star/Biloxi is a challenging pattern but well worth the effort. It can be adjusted to your skill level by adding or subtracting a few seams and choosing your favorite technique. You can sew it all by hand, all by machine or in honor of the pairing of patterns, sew the main pieces by machine and hand appliqué the elliptical melons. Try a traditional color scheme as illustrated or go modern with a white background, grey points, and a rainbow of orange peels. If you have an antique or vintage version of this pattern, please send me a photograph so we can all increase our collective knowledge.

Sandra Starley is nationally certified quilt appraiser, quilt historian, and avid antique quilt collector. She travels throughout the U.S. presenting talks on antique quilt history, fabric dating classes and trunk shows as well as quilting classes. Learn more at utahquiltappraiser.blogspot.com. Send your comments and quilt questions to SandraStarley@outlook.com

Still crazy after all these years! Crazy Quilts – Part II

August 2023

Covering Quilts

Still crazy after all these years! Crazy Quilts – Part II

by Sandra Starley

Crazy Quilts have been an iconic part of quilt history since the 1800s. Similarly, Discover Vintage America has been a sustained force in antiques and history since the early 1970s! Congratulations on 50 Years! My rewarding association with Discover Vintage began in 2015 when they were “looking to start a monthly column on quilting.” I started writing “Covering Quilts” in 2015, so I am already celebrating eight years. While I had previously written only about quilt history, the editors wanted a wider mix of topics, so my writing and research expanded. This endeavor has been a continual learning and growing experience for me, and I hope for my readers as well. Speaking of challenges, my fellow Island Batik fabric ambassadors and I were recently challenged to create a “Crazy Quilt,” which spurred more research on my part. Coincidentally, at the same time, a fellow quilt historian was teaching a study session on what quilts qualify as “Crazy Quilts.” So clearly, this all leads to the question . . .

What is a Crazy Quilt?

Is a Crazy Quilt just the classic velvet, silk, and satin embroidered and embellished quilts from the 1880s as discussed and illustrated in my last column or is there more? The answer is, the category contains much more, and really, the sky is the limit on what can be a crazy quilt. Obviously, the traditional Victorian Era version created with fancy fabric and intricate stitching is the starting point, but most seen is the “contained crazy” block style.

Contained crazies generally have the same random style of piecing as the fancy 1880s versions but are made up of blocks -squares or rectangles. The Victorian versions are often composed of blocks too but contained crazies tend to be framed or contained by sashing. 

a rocky road quilt

A Crazy Quilt

A Crazy stars pillow by Sandra Starley, created for the 2023 Island Batik Challenge. Sandra Starley Crazy Quilt, 2023. Image courtesy of the author

a rocky road quilt

A Crazy Quilt

A Crazy Quilt by Sandra Starley, created for the 2009 Quilt Alliance Challenge. (Image courtesy of the author)

Crazy quilting can be the type of piecing regardless of the type of material or em-bellishment (or lack thereof). It can also be a style of quilt or even a pieced block like Rocky Road to Kansas or Kite block. In 2009, the Alliance for American Quilts issued a Crazy Quilt challenge, and the 85 entries are shown on the Quilt Index. The “Crazy Quilts” range from very traditional versions to a James Brown portrait (in honor of I’ll Go Crazy), and everything in between. I participated in the challenge and took it quite literally, spelling out the challenge name: “Crazy Quilt.” Of course, I outlined the letters with fancy stitching.

Fast forward to 2023 and my second Crazy Quilt Challenge (Island Batik). The Ambassador group members each made a quilted crazy quilt project in a variety of shapes and sizes. The majority created table runners with random piecing and decorative stitching including hearts and other pieced designs. One member pieced a unique Christmas tree from crazy pieced blocks. Two were inspired by nature, resulting in a pictorial Van Gogh rabbit scene and crazy pieced stuffed teddy bear. A number of the group used crazy pieces and embroidery to make notebook covers and purses and bags. Freeform star blocks are featured on my crazy pillow with random pieced filler blocks. The finishing touch was embellishment with decorative stitching. Crazy quilting is a fun and forgiving method and I would highly recommend trying it.

Whether you choose traditional or modern, just have fun and go a little crazy!

Collecting Note
There are a lot of crazy quilts ava0ilable in the marketplace in a wide variety of sizes and styles ranging from the fancy silk and satin crazies to simpler wool and cotton versions. You can find them in all price points too.

When purchasing crazy quilts pay attention to condition.

The silk fabrics used in the 1880s and ‘90s were often sold by the pound and weighted with corrosive metal, which caused many to shred or shatter. It is difficult to find quilts that don’t have at least moderate deterioration. You can cover the damaged areas with colored tulle netting for a cleaner look and to lessen future damage.

Sandra Starley is nationally certified quilt appraiser, quilt historian, and avid antique quilt collector. She travels throughout the U.S. presenting talks on antique quilt history, fabric dating classes and trunk shows as well as quilting classes. Learn more at utahquiltappraiser.blogspot.com. Send your comments and quilt questions to SandraStarley@outlook.com

Crazy quilts showcase beauty in irregularity

July 2023

Covering Quilts

Crazy quilts showcase beauty in irregularity

by Sandra Starley

What do a Victorian parlor, a Wizard of Oz char-acter, and a Batman villain have in common? Crazy Quilts!

From ladies’ magazines in the 1880s to The Patchwork Girl of Oz in 1913, to Batman’s colorful nemesis “Crazy Quilt” in 1946, and almost every news story about the diversity of America, the Crazy Quilt has captured our national imagination for more than 140 years. The most recognizable version is the fancy Victorian silk, satin, and velvet-style quilt popular at the end of the 19th century. Crazy quilt is also a pieced block pattern similar to Rocky Road to Kansas (see my last two columns on that pattern).

Crazy quilts are char-acterized by their random or irregular pieced fabrics, joined and embellished with decorative stitching along the seams and inside the pieces, too. They are generally sewn on fabric foundations and often made in blocks, though some are puzzle-pieced on large foundations.

The fad appears to be related to the interest in Japanese culture sparked by displays in the 1876 Centennial exhibition, which were viewed by millions of people but may have earlier origins. Quilt historian Penny McMorris noted, “Never has there been such intense interest in a particular quilt style as there was in the crazy quilt during the period 1876-1900.” A century later, these treasured quilts appear at state quilt documentation projects in record numbers.

Magazines, fabric manufacturers and pattern designers quickly began promoting fancy quilting and selling specialty products in the early 1880s. Appliqué and embroidery motifs such as fans, cats, flowers, and good luck charms were quite popular. The designs were available in magazines to trace on blocks or preprinted or even already painted or stitched. Embroidered motifs were also offered as iron on patches. Many of the marketing techniques and quick sewing methods used today were pioneered during the “craze” which captivated many quilters. The viral trend was so strong that within a few years, the same magazines were telling women to stop making crazy quilts. In 1890, Good Housekeeping bemoaned the obsession:

“But make it she must,
She will do it or bust,
Beg, swap, and buy pieces or get them on trust,
Oh, the Crazy-quilt mania, may it soon cease to rave.
In the land of the free and the home of the brave.

Crazy piecing continued into the 20th century, but the fabrics used became simpler, either wool or cotton, and the embellishments decreased with embroidered seams but no extra block decorations. There has been a resurgence in interest in crazy quilts both by hand and machine and both simple and elaborately decorated. You can join in the 21st-century craze and use digital patterns to make a crazy quilt entirely by machine or take an online class and make an embellished quilt all by hand. You won’t have any trouble finding someone to help you “go crazy.” But you’ve been warned it is very addictive.

a rocky road quilt

A Crazy Quilt

A crazy quilt, dated 1885, from the Starley quilt collection. (Image courtesy of the author)

Collecting Note
There are a lot of crazy quilts ava0ilable in the marketplace in a wide variety of sizes and styles ranging from the fancy silk and satin crazies to simpler wool and cotton versions. You can find them in all price points too.

When purchasing crazy quilts pay attention to condition.

The silk fabrics used in the 1880s and ‘90s were often sold by the pound and weighted with corrosive metal, which caused many to shred or shatter. It is difficult to find quilts that don’t have at least moderate deterioration. You can cover the damaged areas with colored tulle netting for a cleaner look and to lessen future damage.

Sandra Starley is nationally certified quilt appraiser, quilt historian, and avid antique quilt collector. She travels throughout the U.S. presenting talks on antique quilt history, fabric dating classes and trunk shows as well as quilting classes. Learn more at utahquiltappraiser.blogspot.com. Send your comments and quilt questions to SandraStarley@outlook.com

Classic patterns made modern – Rocky Road to Kansas

June 2023

Covering Quilts

Classic patterns made modern – Rocky Road to Kansas

by Sandra Starley

 

Last month, I wrote about the origins of the classic antique quilt pattern, Rocky Road To Kansas. While it sounds like a design dating back to the pioneer days of the 1850s, it actually hails from the late 1800s – definitely, after the railroad system had made travel less rocky to Kansas and beyond. It was most popular in the 1880s and ‘90s and on through the 1940s. While not a rare antique pattern, it is not very common.

I’ve long loved the large scale and scrappy purple Rocky Road to Kansas made by my great-grandmother, Isabelle Rogers, in the 1930s in rural Utah. She home-dyed cotton fabric salvaged, recycled, or upcycled from flour and sugar sacks for the purple background and the yellow backing fabric. You can’t go wrong with purple and bright yellow! She used muslin foundations as a base for her crazy piecing. Some of her triangle points have just two pieces and others have more than a dozen. This variety of piecing and different scale/size of pieces adds a lot of interest and character to the classic pattern. It is a great way to use scraps or leftover fabrics, but it is perfect for fun new fabrics, too.

Fast forward to March, when I needed to make a project for a quilt challenge. I jumped at the chance to recreate her quilt using a new collection of Island Batiks featuring blues and greens and the much-beloved purple in her honor. I love working in small scale, so I chose to remake her design using little three-inch block sections that join to make six-inch blocks. Quite a difference from her blocks that measure 15 inches. She pieced her blocks in strips and strings and random piecing, I followed printed paper foundations for my blocks. To make my version less formal and more folksy like the inspiration quilt, each block has four different units, placed in different positions. It was a joy to remake the quilt and honor my great-grandmother whom I never had the privilege of meeting. I feel like I always make a bond or connection with the original quilter when I recreate an antique or vintage work, and this one was extra special.

The modern quilting movement has focused on blocks with simple, clean lines and improvisational piecing, so the Rocky Road to Kansas fits right in.

a rocky road quilt

Generations of Rocky Road Quilts

Generations of Rocky Roads: Left – Isabelle Rogers (1935). Right top – Donna Starley. Bottom – Sandra Starley. Image courtesy of the author

Contemporary versions are often made with neutral solid backgrounds (especially grays) and either sewn on paper foundations or strip pieced. My sister Donna made a modern miniature version of Belle’s quilt a few years ago in black and pink. It really is a cool and timeless design. Both Donna and I used foundation paper piecing, but other techniques can be employed. Many people use strip piecing for a more regimented appearance, while others use crazy piecing for a wilder freeform look.

The pattern is very versatile and looks great whether sewn with large or small blocks, light or dark grounds, or traditional prints or modern solids. Don’t shy away from the design because you dislike the dreaded Y or inset seams. Most quilters now make the pattern in square blocks, which totally eliminates the inset seams. Earlier makers like my great-grandmother were often piecing by hand (or hand and machine) and were comfortable with that difficult piecing. With new user-friendly methods and modernized color schemes, this pattern is as appealing today as when it caught the fancy of designers and quilters more than 100 years ago.

Sandra Starley is nationally certified quilt appraiser, quilt historian, and avid antique quilt collector. She travels throughout the U.S. presenting talks on antique quilt history, fabric dating classes and trunk shows as well as quilting classes. Learn more at utahquiltappraiser.blogspot.com. Send your comments and quilt questions to SandraStarley@outlook.com

Classic Patterns: Rocky Road to Kansas

May 2023

Covering Quilts

Classic Patterns: Rocky Road to Kansas

by Sandra Starley

 

Quilt names : ‘Rocky Road to Kansas,’ ‘Texas Tears,’ and ‘Rocky Road to California’,

It’s a quilt name that stirs up images of wagons full of bonneted prairie ladies busily sewing while bumping across the endless Western frontier. “The hardships endured by the sturdy pioneers were constantly in the minds of the early American quilters and inspired many (quilt) names. ‘Rocky Road to Kansas,’ ‘Texas Tears,’ and ‘Rocky Road to California’, (all) have a great interest as they reveal to us the thoughts of our great-grandmothers over their quilting frames.” — Marie Webster, 1916. We now know this nostalgic image of wagons of quilters is simply charming fiction. The Kansas Quilt Documentation Project found no proof that “any pioneers taking the road to Kansas when it was truly rocky made (this) string quilt since the pattern appeared after railroads facilitated trips to Kansas.

The initial publication of a string-pieced Rocky Road to Kansas quilt pattern was not until the Ladies Art Company catalog in 1895. This was the first mail-order catalog of quilt blocks and included almost 300 patterns. Obviously, descriptive names like “X Block” and “String Star” are not dreamy and do not sell quilt patterns in the same way, so this romantic myth of “Quilts of The West” continues to roll on.

The main sections of the pattern involve easy sewing of strips, strings, or random pieces. But the background pieces were traditionally inset with Y seams, which can be tricky. Most quilters now split the background diamonds in half for simple piecing. For a more formal look, strip piecing can be used. One sews cut strips together and then slices the strip segments into four triangles or Vs for each block. Another name for this pattern is The Kite Block, first published in The Ohio Farmer (1897). It features four strip-pieced kites flying nose to nose (looking at the pattern from a different direction). I found a charming small-scale version of this pattern, circa 1890 from Lancaster County, PA, with red and Lancaster Blue centers, a yellow framing row, and a Double Pink background. This careful color placement and straight line or strip piecing in some areas help control what could be a very wild quilt.

a rocky road quilt

A Rocky Road Quilt

An example of a Rocky Road quilt. (Image courtesy of the author)

Early quilters often used string piecing for this pattern, adding fabric strings (small strips or pieces) to a muslin, scrap, or recycled fabric base. Newspapers or other papers were used later for the foundation. In The Romance of the Patchwork Quilt (1935), Hall and Kretsinger suggested their method for creating the pattern: “The four-pointed star is made of irregular shaped pieces sewed together ‘Crazy’ fashion, then cut into points.” Creating your own pieced fabric to make blocks is a great example of “everything old is new again” and is now called crumb quilting, improvisational quilting, or simply scrap quilting. In fact, one of the big advocates of this method, Victoria Findlay Wolfe, notes that her 15 Minutes of Play method for creating a scrap “made fabric” is a reinvention of an old technique.

My great-grandmother Isabelle Rogers used the Hall & Kretsinger guidelines when creating her scrappy 1930s quilt in rural Utah. She used muslin foundations as a base for her crazy piecing. Finally, standard paper or foundation piecing can be used to construct the block. This method involves following a printed pattern rather than doing the random or crazy piecing described by Hall. More about grandmother’s quilt and the techniques I used to recreate it next month.

Sandra Starley is nationally certified quilt appraiser, quilt historian, and avid antique quilt collector. She travels throughout the U.S. presenting talks on antique quilt history, fabric dating classes and trunk shows as well as quilting classes. Learn more at utahquiltappraiser.blogspot.com. Send your comments and quilt questions to SandraStarley@outlook.com